priorities...

The biggest surprise to me is how easy it's been to push to one side the things I always felt defined me as a person. I've surfed for over 20 years and I'm thankful for everything it's given me, but I don't feel like this is the end or the last chance for the last surf. I drove down to South Fistral a few days ago and watched perfect waist high waves breaking at low tide. I thought to myself, I should be out there, but then I didn't want to sit in the line up thinking "is this going to be my last surf? What if this thing kills me? Last ever wave?"it was a depressing scene. I decided to rethink the approach. The sea and the waves will always be there, they will certainly be here in the summer next year when I'm through this and on the mend, and that's when I'll surf again. It just felt way more positive to think this way.

Speaking of positivity, this is the point where I get thank you- my freinds and family for the amazing support and kindness. I'm writing this blog as a way to keep those who want to know, informed as to what's going on. I think I've said this many times over this week, but don't feel for a second like messaging, texting and communicating in any way is not welcome, it's been the only thing that's kept out spirits afloat over the last two weeks through all this, so please keep it coming. If I don't get back right away it's because I'm in hospital having treatment or I'm sleeping off said treatment or just generally feeling a bit wack!, but I will get back to you. peace.